Photo by David Carbajo Pacheco on Unsplash
My 2017 trip to Seville became an unexpected immersion into the city's Semana Santa celebrations. The city’s transformation, with its closed businesses and altered streets, provided a unique travel experience. This is what you should expect when visiting Seville during Semana Santa.
Visiting Seville: The Highlights
Seville, the vibrant capital of Andalusia, is a city that effortlessly blends rich history, stunning architecture, and a lively, modern spirit. Take the time to marvel at its intricate Moorish palaces, and the rhythmic strumming of flamenco guitars echoing through the streets.
A must-see is the Real Alcázar, a breathtaking palace complex showcasing centuries of architectural styles, from Islamic to Gothic and Renaissance. Adjacent to the Alcázar stands the magnificent Seville Cathedral, one of the world's largest Gothic cathedrals, housing the iconic Giralda bell tower, offering panoramic city views.

The Plaza de España, a stunning architectural masterpiece built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, is a perfect spot for a leisurely stroll or a boat ride along its canal.
For a taste of authentic Sevillian culture, immerse yourself in a flamenco show, savor tapas in a traditional bar, or simply relax in one of the city's many beautiful parks.
While there are several processions in the Triana neighborhood, note that the Santa Cruz neighborhood, with its narrow streets and flower-filled patios, provides a beautiful walk between viewing the processions.
Seville's lively atmosphere, warm hospitality, and abundance of cultural treasures make it an unforgettable destination for any traveler.
Getting There
By Air
Seville is well-connected and easily accessible by various means of transportation. For those arriving by air, Seville Airport (SVQ) offers direct flights from numerous European cities and connecting flights from other international destinations. From the airport, you can easily reach the city center by bus, taxi, or private transfer.
From the Algarve, Portugal by Bus
My own journey to Seville happened to be from the Algarve, Portugal. For a budget-friendly option, I opted for a bus from Albufeira. The journey itself was scenic, offering glimpses of the Andalusian countryside. Be prepared for potential delays and increased traffic, especially during busy periods. Booking your bus tickets in advance is highly recommended to secure your spot. Make sure to check the bus company's schedule for any specific changes.
Where I Stayed
For my stay in Seville, I chose The Nomad Hostel. It was a fantastic base for exploring the city during Semana Santa. Located in the heart of the city center, the hostel's central location made it easy to reach key procession routes and attractions. The staff were incredibly helpful, providing tips and information about the celebrations. They even organized a walking tour, which was a great way to get acquainted with the city's layout and the significance of the Semana Santa traditions.

The communal atmosphere of the hostel allowed me to meet fellow travelers and share experiences of the vibrant festivities. I LOOVED the rooftop bar and looked forward to the communal dinners every night. If you are looking for a social and budget-friendly place to stay, The Nomad Hostel is a great option.
During my stay, the walking tour provided by the hostel was a great way to get my bearings, and understand the historical significance of the processions. It also helped me find some of the best viewing spots. Be aware that during Semana Santa, many of the normal walking routes will be closed, so plan accordingly.
What is Semana Santa?
Semana Santa translates to "Holy Week" and occurs in the seven days leading up to Easter. In Seville, this religious celebration transforms the city into a captivating spectacle of faith, tradition, and cultural expression. It's not merely a series of religious processions; it's a deeply ingrained part of Sevillian identity, passed down through generations.
During Semana Santa, brotherhoods, known as "hermandades" or "cofradías," take to the streets, carrying elaborately decorated floats called "pasos." These pasos depict scenes from the Passion of Christ and the Virgin Mary, and are often adorned with intricate carvings, candles, and flowers. The processions are accompanied by solemn music, creating a powerful and emotional atmosphere.
Thousands of "nazarenos," penitents dressed in traditional robes and conical hoods, walk in the processions, adding to the solemnity and visual impact. The processions wind their way through the city's narrow streets, following a designated route to the Seville Cathedral and back to their respective churches.
Semana Santa: The Attire
I finally got to see the "capirotes" i learned about in my high school Spanish class. Capirotes are pointed, conical hats worn to represent humility. As the wearer repents, he does not want attention drawn towards himself, but to God.
I know what this may remind you of, and i got you.
Let's get right to it: the KKK stole this attire from its usage in Spain, dating back centuries.While once used during punishment during Inquisition, it's use was adopted for Semena Santa by the Catholic brotherhood.

Semana Santa: The Processions
Seville's Semana Santa is renowned for its elaborate and moving processions, each with its own unique character and history. Here are a few of the most significant and notable ones:
- El Silencio (The Silence):
- Taking place in the early hours of Holy Wednesday, El Silencio is known for its profound solemnity and quiet reverence. The procession moves through the darkened streets in near-complete silence, with only the soft sounds of footsteps and the occasional musical note breaking the stillness.
- La Macarena:
- One of the most beloved and popular processions, La Macarena takes place in the early hours of Good Friday. The image of the Virgin of Macarena, adorned with exquisite jewels and flowers, is met with immense devotion and emotion from the crowds.
- El Gran Poder (The Great Power):
- Also on Good Friday, El Gran Poder is known for its solemnity and the powerful image of Jesus carrying the cross. The procession is characterized by its slow, deliberate pace and the deep devotion of its followers.
- La Esperanza de Triana (Hope of Triana):
- This procession, originating from the Triana neighborhood, is known for its vibrant atmosphere and the passionate devotion of its followers. The image of the Virgin of Esperanza is greeted with cheers and applause as it makes its way through the streets.
- El Cachorro (The Puppy):
- This procession also from the Triana neighborhood, happens on good friday. It is known for its emotional impact, and the impressive size of the "paso" it carries.
The Thursday night into the early morning of Good Friday is a long night! This is when you'll witness processions such as The Passion and those during the La Madruga, the high point of the processions starting in the early morning of Good Friday and lasting until midday.
Conclusion
Even though I'm no longer a practicing Christian, I still revere Semana Santa in Seville as an experience unlike any other. The blend of religious devotion, cultural tradition, and vibrant atmosphere creates a truly unforgettable memory. If you have the chance to witness it, embrace the experience and allow yourself to be immersed in the magic of this unique celebration.
